Friday, 15 September 2017 to Thursday, 21 September 2017

It rained most of the day in Amsterdam, no surprises there; it had been the norm for the last week or two. But, we were okay with that, we had to start packing in order to write the next chapter of our journey. We were scheduled to pick our rental car up at Schiphol Airport tomorrow for our month long road trip to the east of Europe. Our main destination would be Slovenia where we intended to visit friends Marina and Steve whom we met on Koh Samui. They came to visit us in Chiang Mai (Thailand) and again in Budva (Montenegro), now it was our turn visit.We knew we would not be able to fit yoga in during our road trip so planned to do a final session this morning. As the day dragged on though we were still yoga-less by mid afternoon so we gave up on ourselves. The yoga mats were packed, right at the bottom of our bags where they best fit.

Adri busied herself with washing and tentatively started packing a few things while I concentrated on making backups and blogging and such.

It was early evening when we did our last Jumbo supper shopping; it was to be frozen pizzas specially concocted for us by Dr. Oetker, so nice of him. As you would know, frozen pizzas can never be good, but these are the best of the bad.

The alarm disturbed our slumber at 07:00 on Saturday morning. Adri got up; I pressed my mental snooze button. It was 07:30 when I received coffee in bed… Aah, now that was better.

Adri scrambled to finalise the packing and by 11:30 we were finally out of there, We were supposed to pick the car up at 12:00 but there was no way we were going to make that. Two tram and a bus ride later we were at the Budget car rental counter at Schiphol Airport which they share with Avis. It was the Avis man that assisted us.

The first suspected hurdle we passed with flying colours, they actually had record of the booking we made through rentalcars.com. The second suspected hurdle was not that easy. Now you may remember that our driver’s license cards had expired, oh, end of last year already, so I was using my supposedly very valid license that was pasted into my ID book. With as much confidence as I could muster I presented my ID book to the Avis guy. “But this is the old license; I need your SA license card.” This guy was onto me, he’s obviously served many SA citizens in the past. Oh oh…

I kept tjoepstil (very quiet), I did not say a word, I just looked at him… and he looked at me. I was not going to give him my expired license card, he’d be onto me double-time. He shuffled his papers, looked at his screen, then looked at me, this circular momentum continued at 10 second intervals, the anticipation was driving me nuts. It was five minutes later that he finally gave in to my silent treatment with “Okay, I’ll accept the license; I can see you’re not a crooked guy”. I winced with a smile; we had passed our second hurdle.

He then presented me with a car I did not book. Our rental car was now upgraded from an upgrade; I’ve never had that happen to me, but let me explain. I initially booked a small car, then upgraded it to a less small car, now this guy wanted to give me a huge car, a bloody station wagon! Now in Europe you want a small car as it is easier to drive along some of the small roads and easier to park in the tiniest of spaces in the cities. I declined the upgrade offer but there was this incessant voice in my head that insisted it was a great idea… It was only after I caved in and accepted the upgrade that I realized, it was Adri’s voice.

We left the airport, me in a tentative, or maybe it was a contemplative mood, but by the time we reached Apeldoorn and had a coffee, I felt much more at ease in my Peugeot 308 SW. Fortunately driving on the right no longer bothered me; else it would have been a double-whammy nightmare.

We initially headed to Amersfoort where we intended to go for coffee, but some off ramps off the highway were closed and after the fifth reroute by the GPS we decided that Apeldoorn seemed like an easier place to have coffee. We drove through the lovely Apeldoorn, searching for a cuppa, a cappuccino that is, and found it at the Pannekoekhuis (Pancake House). We sat there catching our breath after a rather harrowing trip from the airport trying to get used to our new bus.

 

 

 

Our main aim for the day was to make it to Deventer, the town where Adri’s forefathers came from before they packed up and left for SA back in the 1600s. We arrived in Deventer and drove up and down and all around, getting to know the birthplace of Adri’s ancestors. And what a lovely town it turned out to be, everything is so tidy and well kept, like everything else in Holland, but Deventer seems to be even more so.

While driving I had my left eye on the road, the right was searching for a place to stay for the night. The right was not successful. We pulled over and started googling for an inn for the night. Just as well I topped up my roaming on the Orange network this morning else we might have been homeless tonight.

Not many places in Deventer presented itself on google although there were a few in the surrounding area, mostly B&Bs though. We phoned Erve Dikkeboer (Inheritance of the fat farmer) in Bathmen (sounds like Batman with a lisp), 10km from Deventer, he had one place left for some weary travellers.

We arrived at the Fat Farmer and what an amazing little place this was. The owner Gary, or rather Gerrit, checked us in and guided us to our one night stand. We were pleasantly surprised, it was a small apartment rather than just a room, nice and cosy and warm inside. The central heating was set to a comfortable 21°C. There was a chilly chill brewing outside.

Gerrit and his wife Else Terkeurs explained that they bought their property from the Fat Farmer many years ago, tried their hand at a restaurant in Bathmen, but then decided that a B&B was less work. Their property is one hectare and consists of the main house and four separate cottages, each different and with their very own personality. For example, the one next door to us was a gypsy trailer, now decked out with all the mod cons required, quite unique. There is also a very large pool, now covered for the winter, green fields all around, a truly wonderful little setup. And what a wonderfully friendly couple Gerrit and Else are.

It was early evening when Adri and I took a drive back into Deventer to walk among the ghosts of her past. It started raining, the cold and mist was creeping up on us, so we decided to get a takeaway, head to our cosy home and have an early evening.

We woke up to a beautiful blue-sky Sunday morning and would you believe, we received breakfast in bed, a rather unexpected surprise… And what a great breakfast it was!

After we had recovered and finished our surprise we had a final chat to Gerrit and Else after which we drove back into Deventer for a last look around. We walked around the lovely little streets and plentiful little shops and crisscrossed the large square with a zillion restaurants dotting its perimeter. We visited both churches, which by the way, don’t do church duty anymore; they are mostly used for concerts and meetings and what not nowadays. And it was in the second church that we found the famed Deventer koek (cake), which tastes a bit like a fruit cake without too many fruits, a bit dryer, no brandy, but with a spicy edge to it… just wonderful. Deventer turned out to be a lovely town which we would definitely wish to visit again sometime in the future.

We knew it was going to be a long day on the road and that there would be no time for supper, so we bought foodstuffs at the local Jumbo before leaving Deventer. The most direct route to our intended destination, Ljubljana in Slovenia, took us through Germany and we anticipated that we could make in to Leipzig by 20:00. The roads in Germany are well maintained and this is a blessing and a curse. The blessing is self explanatory, the curse; too many road works… just too many, we finally reached Leipzig only at 22:00.

And by the way, we had yet again not booked a hotel. We had though identified the Best Western but did not want to book it via booking.com, just in case we did not make it there. Cancellations were not allowed thus we would run the risk of forfeiting our payment.

The guy at the reception desk could not have been nicer. After the formalities were done I said “I need a beer… a large one”. The bar and restaurant were by now long closed but he could see the desperation in my eyes, he understood my need. He got a glint in his eye and said “Let me see what I can do”. He chatted up the lady that was busy preparing for breakfast, yes, it was that late, and within a few minutes both Adri and I each had a huge draught in our hands. What a lovely chap!

We drank our beer in the room while having a Jumbo supper… By 00:00 it was lights out, ours were too, we were soooo tired.

Breakfast Monday morning was great but we could not linger, we had many miles to cover. I assumed that we must have been drunk last night, or maybe just way over-tired, but this morning we decided to make a detour rather than head straight to Slovenia. Prague in the Czech Republic seemed to be not too far out of the way, so this was where we were heading today. The friendly beer chap from last night said we could book out late at 12:00, so we used this time to make sure we had a place to stay for night. We got underway just after 12:00 for our 260km jaunt, a tad less than the 550km we covered yesterday.

I thought it was going to be an easy drive today but, alas, the effect of yesterday’s drive late into the night caught up with me… and it was not the beer. After managing to stay barely awake I was rudely woken up by the GPS stating that I should turn off the highway where there was no turnoff. I had the good sense to ignore it and stick to the highway. This girl wanted to lead me down the garden path but I was having none of it, she was not going to have her way with me. I stuck to the straight and narrow. It was only then that I noticed a message at the bottom left of the GPS screen screaming “Zone not available”. Ouch! But, we soldiered on.

We were 30km from Prague when we supposedly moved off the missing zone and things went back to normal… what a relief! We entered Prague, found our hotel without any difficulty and easily found parking along these beautiful blue parking stripes. We later found out that we were not allowed to park in these blue zones, you need a permit or something for that.

The lady at the check-in desk seemed grumpy. First she could not find our booking, my heart sank to the bottom of the deepest ocean, then she found it, I thought my heart would get decompression sickness as it returned… “ID!” I gave her my ID. “Cannot accept ID, give passport!” I gave her my passport.

While she was tentatively pushing a few keys we waited at the counter to be checked in. “Sit down… there… wait…” Jeepers, what did we do to deserve this? We later found out, to out relief, that she was actually a sweet old dear, she was just under a bit of pressure with the capturing of all our information and the effort of trying to help us in English.

The hotel has no parking available, and we needed to get out of our blue zone parking, like fast. We were pointed to an open-air parking lot just up the road. Just up the road turned out to be 1km away, but it was fine, we at least found it and the car would be safe.

Back at the hotel I was as tired and run-down as my A4 battery in my mouse, which reminded me to buy and replace such. We got hooked up to the wifi and tried to make sense of the public transport. Oops, we had no Czech currency, we needed an ATM. Where was the closest ATM? Where was the closest bus or tram stop? For heaven’s sake, which way do we go?

We took all our questions to the front desk lady. She went outside, pointed us down the road to a white building, which ended up being a pink building, but we did find the ATM. “Two roads down from the hotel is a main road, get on the 207 bus and get off at its last stop, that will be the old town”, she explained. See, she was actually a sweet old dear.

With brass in pocket, read Czech Crown, the bus ride was a cinch and before we knew it we were in a church, you know Adri cannot pass up on a good church. We were in the St. Francis Of Assissi Church and before we knew it, a church service started. I skulked towards the exit but got a dirty look from Adri, we needed to spend at least 10 minutes… still not sure why 10, why not 11, or… I refused to read anything into, it would be fruitless.

 

 

 

Once outside we crossed the famous Charles Bridge that crosses the Vltava River after which we walked around the hood, marvelling at all there was to see. Soon enough we crossed that same bridge again where we proceeded to watch some wonderful street performers doing their thing.

Leaving the street performers behind, we entered the old town with its amazing architecture and walked along its plentiful cobbled stoned streets that are dressed in beautiful boutique shops and restaurants and whatnot.

Once we were sufficiently tired we decided to call it a night, almost. We took the bus back to our hotel but as we disembarked I realized that a beer had not yet passed my lips today. Is it even possible, or even legal, to come to the Czech Republic without having a beer…? I thought not.

I scanned our immediate vicinity like a hawk for a place to right my wrong, any place would do. My eyes burnt into a sign that read Tunel Bar and a few steps later we entered what probably could not have been a more down to earth very local pub. We were met by a bar full of friendly folks, what a cool place in turned out to be! Beers were ordered and consumed, the beer was cold, the beer was good, the beer was probably the cheapest I had ever had at €2,94 for two large ones!

 

 

 

While going through our emails on Tuesday morning before breakfast we got the distinct feeling that it was time to get back to SA, there was some admin stuff that was really starting to become problematic. My credit card will expire in two week’s time and there was no easy way to get the new card to me. Adri’s bank card had already expired and there was no way to get it to her. Our Diners cards had expired at the beginning of the year… but that’s another story. Our driver’s licenses expired at the end of last year, but that you already knew.

A frank discussion took place during a rather good breakfast. We were planning to be in SA early November but the situation we faced made us decide to go back on the day we return our rental car in Amsterdam, there was no other way; we had plenty of admin crap to sort out.

During breakfast we also decided to spend another day in Prague. This decision was not just based on the beauty of the place, but there was another more sinister reason, we needed to get some really urgent admin out of the way, but let me explain…

This morning Adri wanted to do a transfer and found that her Nedbank account had been frozen, left outside in the cold to die a slow death. And this without prior notification or warning which was a really shitty thing to do, Nedbank! Apparently her new card was ready for collection at her branch but in the meantime she had to redo her FICA (Financial Intelligence Centre Act) requirements. Could this freezing thing not have waited until she was good and ready to collect her card?

In the meantime I also needed to do FICA on one of my accounts; else it had a really good chance of getting all frozen up as well by the 27th, which was less than a week away. We had the real possibility of being without even one working card and thus without any source of income or cash. So we both knuckled down and completed all the relevant documents and questionnaires, sent it off, so we’ll see what stumbling block they dream up next, to be rolled into our path.

After having confirmed our extended stay at the hotel we had to extend the car’s stay as well, so we ambled up the road to the parking lot. After paying our dues the parking lady enlightened us on the ways of the tram which would take us directly into the old town. “Buy the tickets at that shop over there”, she said as she pointed across the road. The people here are most helpful and friendly.

The tram trollied along at a steady pace and soon enough we arrived in the old town and started the walking tour that Adri had prepared for us. First up we crossed the Most Legif Bridge and having gone halfway across, took a lift down to the little island in the middle of the Vltava River. We spend a pleasant stroll here exploring the park and soon enough found ourselves back on the mainland and walking in a northerly direction along the river and through the Kampa Park.

 

 

We nosed into the Kampa Museum for a look around but time was not on Adri’s itinerary, we had to push on. Our next destination was the John Lennon wall of remembrance which is covered with graffiti, mostly in memory of that legend Lennon. From there we walked, still in a northerly direction, up the hill and then up a million or so steps, to the Prague Castle, which sports amazing views across Prague, definitely worth the effort. This is apparently the largest ancient castle in the world and occupies an area of almost 70,000 square metres.

 

 

 

We strolled through the wonderful palace grounds marvelling at the old buildings and its ancient architecture. It was getting late by the time we reached the eastern entrance where we exited down a long and winding walkway. We ambled back across the Charles Bridge and into the old town, and on to Prague’s astronomical clock which puts on a show for tourists every hour on the hour. We joined the ever increasing crowd that had gathered and watched this “spectacle” unfold before us. A minute or two later all was over and we moved on, we needed a trdelník…

Yesterday was the first time that we came across a thing called a trdelník, one cannot miss them, they are ubiquitous all around town, and tonight we decided to entertain one. A trdelník, also sometimes referred to as a chimney or tower bread, is made from rolled dough that is wrapped around a stick, then grilled and normally topped with sugar and walnut mix, but also comes in a wide variety of different fillings. We chose one with vanilla cream which was simply scrumptious…

We were still not hungry but had to eat something, but more importantly, I was thirsty, I needed beer more than food. We found the perfect compromise, a spot that proclaimed it was a beer restaurant. Their food was good, the beers were better. Adri had the beef goulash with dumplings and I had an onion soup with croutons, or as the menu stated, toasted bread, with ample blobs of cheese swimming amongst the onions. A great feast was had.

It was around 22:00 that we took the bus back home and, although beyond tired, we could not resist popping into our local Tunel Bar for a final pint. Well, I had the final pint, Adri opted for a liqueur, a suggestion from the bargirl, a traditional Czech liqueur called Becherovka. It must have been good, Adri soon enough ordered a second.

Wednesday morning we decided, rather than head straight to Slovenia, to make a detour via Slovakia and stay in its capital Bratislava for one night. During breakfast we booked our accommodation for the evening through booking.com. This proved to be a fatal mistake, but I’m getting ahead of myself…

It was 11:30 when we walked to the parking lot a kilometre away, leaving our luggage behind to be picked up when we were mobile. The parking lot lady from yesterday was there again in the prefab makeshift office, but this time there was also a gorgeous creature munching away on something or other. Her ragdoll cat with perfect blue eyes, named Puccini, was oblivious to our admiration. What a beautiful creature she was.

Now you may think that our way back to the hotel would be straightforward, but you would be wrong. You see, the roads in this area are all one-ways, and turning up the correct one-way road for our hotel, we found that that particular block was cordoned off with concrete pillars. There was seemingly no way to get to our hotel by car… but… but… but… we got there just fine, just yesterday.

Having no straightforward way to get back to the hotel I decided, against Adri’s better judgement, to go down a one-way street… just for one quick block. Now you may think that the chance of there being a traffic cop right there at that precise moment would be slim, but you would be wrong. With blue lights flashing behind me, then next to me and in another instant coming to an abrupt halt in front of me; it necessitated me to make an abrupt stop as well. There was a siren somewhere in there as well which I did not hear; my ears were awash with the sound of stress.

The cop approached the car; he had a no-English-spoken-around-here look on his face. There was so much wrong with this situation. Over and above my obvious error, or error in judgement, I had a drivers license on me that was expired, I had no passport on my person, I also had no ID document on me… need I go on? The chap rumbled off a series of words in Czech that sounded like rolling thunder. He kept on relentlessly until I finally understood that he demanded my license. I had no option; I passed him my expired license card. I then heard “passport!” I could barely hear my answer but I remember pointing up at the hotel, which was by now perfectly visible, but that made no impression on this uniformed person. I received ever increasingly stern looks.

He disappeared into his car, obviously phoned in my ID and determined that I was indeed a legal alien in his country. As he handed back my license card he admonished me with a “Max fine… 2000 Crown… for you… nothing”. I thanked the man profusely with a Thai wai, not sure what he thought about that but he did manage a slight smile. Lesson to all… don’t do what I did. If you go up a one-way street in error and get caught, well that’s just bad luck, but don’t do it knowingly, that’s just plain stupid.

It was just past midday that we nosed our way out of Prague, making our way to Bratislava. Again, there were too many stretches of road works, just like in Germany, thus we were not making good time. Now don’t get me wrong, road works are a good thing, but when you have to deal with it on an on-going basis on one trip, it gets a tad tedious.

Just before we crossed the border into Slovakia we stopped off at a filling station to fill up with some coffee. We still had a few Crown left but that only bought one cappuccino. Fortunately they accepted Euros for the second. The temperature was 14°C with an icy wind slicing through murg en been (marrow and bone). As we have noticed during the last week or two, winter had arrived in Europe… it was time to move on to sunnier climes.

We arrived in Bratislava using google maps on my Iphone to find the hotel, Peugeot’s GPS did not recognize the address we provided. At the point where the hotel should have been somewhere to our right, that google bitch insisted that we turn left, which of course I did. And of course we did not find our hotel there, how could google get it so wrong…?!

At this juncture there were seemingly a million roads that converges in one place, “It’s a mess” I can hear Didier say. But there was a bigger mess in the making. I stopped off at the Crown Plaza Hotel just to catch my breath; I knew this was not going to be an easy ride. While I was recalculating and rerouting, Adri went inside the Crown Plaza to find out how to manually get to our hotel, which even the helpful lady there found difficult to explain.

While waiting for Adri I checked my emails and would you believe… no you wouldn’t, neither could I… there was a message that read “Hello there, it so happened that we are unable to honour your booking, as there has been a technical issue between us and the booking.com and as a result the room was not properly closed. In any event, we have arranged for a substitute accommodation…” A seemingly nonchalant message… they’re playing with somebody’s life here, do they even realize it! Man, was I pissed. When Adri arrived back she started explaining the route she had just been advised, she put on a brave face when I broke the news… we were homeless.

I fumbled around on booking.com, this time on the small screen of my iphone, the only gadget that had internet access… thank heavens for small mercies. And yes, again I was searching on booking.com, by now I should have learned my lesson, I hear you say and you may just be right. But, what could I do? Now let me be clear, landing in a strange city, in a strange county, with wintry weather to boot, and homeless… that’s no fun in anybody’s eyes.

After a quick search I found something reasonable, not quite in town, but we were mobile so it was not a big issue. We arrived at out new accommodation, Adri went quiet, I went “Oh shit!”, the place looked a dump. But fortunately, looks can be deceiving, and the place was rather more than okay, and best of all, super clean, which is most important in our books.

Late afternoon we took a drive into town. Parking at any of the number of parking garages are €3.70 per hour. After a quick search on the internet we found free parking available under the Old Bridge which is close to the old town, so we saved ourselves approximately €17, which almost paid for supper.

 

The old town of Bratislava is not large but really wonderful. Most old towns have narrow little streets, but here there were larger walkways and not many tourists. The architecture and the well kept and maintained buildings here are quite something.

We found a pub with a happy hour that was still happy and had a few beers there. It was past 21:00 when we started to feel peckish and Adri remembered reading about a restaurant called Café Verne recommended by some travel book. And what a lovely spot this turned out to be. Adri had the Hungarian goulash with pork and cabbage and sauce and dumplings, I had the chicken goulash with a rich creamy sauce with pasta. The pasta turned out to be gnocchi bits which were fantastic. We both had a glass of red wine and ended the meal off with a scrumptious tiramisu. Wow!

Thursday we left a cold and damp Bratislava behind us at around 11:30; we only had about 200km on the radar today. Our destination was Budapest in Hungary, after deciding last night that another detour on the way to Slovenia was in order. No sooner had we hit the highway when it started raining, like all the way to Budapest.

As we did not have breakfast at the hotel we stopped off at the first filling station/rest area we encountered off the highway. After a couple of freshly made sandwiches and a deliciously strong cappuccino, we were once again making good progress in the rain.

Jokingly I told Adri to check whether our hotel booking we made last night had been cancelled, like we experienced yesterday in Bratislava. And would you believe…? Yes you would! It once again had been cancelled due to an overbooking of some sorts. What the…!!

It was 30 minutes later that we received an update email to say that the problem had been resolved and we did indeed have a place to stay. They must stop doing this to my faltering heart. One lesson we have learned from booking.com, never take a confirmed booking as confirmed, it seems that it can be cancelled seemingly at will. I surely will be taking this up with booking.com.

When crossing the border, the highway split into several lanes and we saw cars parked off next to a building that mentioned something about a vignette… does that have something to do with cars/insurance etc? We didn’t know and in fact we were already queuing up in a lane to pass into Hungary, and in any case, insurance and such should be covered by the car rental company. I was thinking about googling this vignette thing later on but decided against it, sometimes ignorance is bliss… I was hoping though that we would not get into trouble… again!

We arrived in Budapest around 15:30 and immediately felt comfortable in the place. There was somehow a familiarity to the city, we just kinda liked it. We found our hotel without any problem but were faced with yet another issue, apparently I had booked a room for one person, so only a single room was available. This was surely not possible, my details are kept on booking.com, and those are the details used whenever I do a booking. Before too long the lady fortunately found the error in her ways, she was looking at a surname that resembled mine, somehow, apparently.

It was still raining non-stop, not hard, but it was still very wet. We settled down in our room catching up on reading and admin but by 18:00 we had to move, come hell or high-water, we could not be in Budapest stuck in a hotel room.

Now facing only a drizzle we hopped on bus number 9 which took us to Deak Ferenc station in centre town from where we proceeded to walk along the lovely streets with beautiful buildings and architecture wherever we gazed.

I was happy to just stroll around marvelling but Adri had two must-sees on her list. Her penchant for visiting places of worship had become my places of warship; one can see just so many insides of churches, temples, cathedrals, mosques and synagogues. First on her list was the Dohány Street Synagogue, also known as the Great Synagogue or Tabakgasse Synagogue, which is the largest synagogue in Europe and the second largest in the world, a beautiful structure indeed.

And this was where I set off the alarm… literally. It was late and dark and one could not enter the grounds but I was insistent to take a picture of a row of statues along a walkway inside the premises. Leaning too far over the side of the railing I obviously broke some security beam and triggered the screeching alarm. I managed to get my shot… and then we were off like a shot. We had moved only about 10 metres when a security guard rounded the corner in a huff in order to investigate. I was trying to hurry on and get out of there, Adri was slowing down, not wanting to make it obvious we’re running away from some devious deed. Nonchalantly we continued, not making eye contact with the security detail. We were spared prosecution.

As we hurried on to our next destination, the St. Stephen’s Basilica, I told Adri “We’re gonna get sick in this weather” to which she replied “For this, it will be worth it!” So we took the chance with the icy rain from above, an icy wind from the front, and wet and cold and damp rising up from below. Not a perfect situation but we were happy to soldier on. And of course Adri was right; it was well worth the effort.

After our visit to the basilica we were famished and needed sustenance, both food and liquid. While on our earlier expedition to find the synagogue we passed by this one particular walkway which had a relentless stream of cafes, restaurants and pubs… this was heaven! And thus this was where we headed back to and chose our place of joy, a restaurant called Cochon. A Dehler draft went partly to Adri with a 7up added for a shandy, all was good and calm. Adri had a wonderful Caesar salad while I opted for the bean soup with ample chorizo and cuts of ham, just what was needed to stave off this cold weather. Adri’s was excellent; mine was good enough though not great.

 

 

We got home thoroughly tired but happy, happy in the thought that tomorrow we would finally make it to Slovenia, and to Steve and Marina.

We started our road trip on Saturday in The Netherlands, then it was on to Germany, the Czech Republic, Slovakia, Hungary, and tomorrow we will be in Slovenia, six countries in six days… exhausting but exhilarating!

 

Home